Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
